I've seen a couple ppl post about recall. Bagheera just isn't interested in coming back unless it's just us. We take him to a field and he's great when it's just is but walking him anywhere else is a nightmare. I worry taking him off lead as I don't trust him not to come back. Have tried the long lead and we just end up all tangled up also has anyone heard of swag head collar? Bagheera wears a head collar as he pulls so hard I've had swag recommended by a few pets shops now just wondering if anyone else had used them.
I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole. Any head collar that tightens round the dog's head is bad news. "Soothes the dog" my bottom. I'm confused about why you think a headcollar would help with recall anyway?
I hadn't heard of them but Google suggests that it may be these collars you are referring to swagheadcollar_danijeffrey_review.html If so I definitely wouldn't use one based upon the Description of how it works Description: The SWAG Head Collar sits on the muzzle of the dog and goes around the back of the head where it tightens with an adjustable strap. When using the head collar pressure from the dog pulling forward is felt on the bridge of the muzzle pulling the head down and halting forward momentum, at which point the dog will slow down and over time should learn to walk calmly beside you. A head collar, of any variety, should never be used with a long or extending lead., it totally defeats the object of the head collar and can cause damage to the neck. Like @snowbunny I'm a little confused with the use of a head collar and recall problems. ...
Nothing to do with recall just a question. I was told my puppy trainer about a head collar as he's so strong. I can't walk him with out it. The one he has now pulls across his face and I don't like it but he needs a walk and I'm the only one who can walk him. He has it on about 10mins while we walk to the field then it comes off and he has a run about and plays catch.
The head collar question was just what in added at the end nothing to do with recall. Maybe I should of done a separate post about it.
For recall, you need to follow a structured approach to training him in increasingly difficult situations. The book Total Recall is a good place to start. I'll be up front and say I am pretty anti head collars, think they are generally very upsetting to the dog just to wear them. I would always try a front-clipped harness before a head collar but appreciate some dogs are still very strong whilst wearing one. My Luna is incredibly strong and when I first came back to Andorra for the winter, she pulled me over several times by lunging in excitement in the snow. So I popped her in her harness for a week or so and the front attachment gave me enough control to get down the road I needed her on lead for, whilst reviewing training. It didn't take her long to get back in the groove, but it was the training that did this, not the device. The harness just prevented me being pulled over on the ice. If I did think I had no choice but to use a head collar, and if I had no choice but to walk from A to B on lead before the dog was trained, I'd probably go for a head collar and a harness, so I could transition as quickly as possible to just the harness. In any event, training to walk on a loose lead is key rather than relying on a correctional device. It can be slow and boring training, especially when the dog has a history of pulling, but it's invaluable and you can absolutely make it fun and games-based so you both enjoy it. This is something I got right with Luna and wrong with my other two. They all walk beautifully on the lead now, but it was a far longer journey with Willow and Shadow because I just didn't make it fun, even though I used positive reinforcement. It was hard work and very frustrating for us all. Using a games-based approach with Luna gave her a far better loose lead walk far sooner. If you do use a head collar, it's important that you get one that fits properly, does not ride up into the eyes or rub around the muzzle, and I would absolutely never use one that tightened, either around the head or the muzzle. The dog has lots of very sensitive spots around his head and tightening devices are unnecessarily painful.
Thank you have been looking at the book. Defiantly something I will invest in. As for head collars and a harness is there a harness you would advice on? He did have a harness but clipped on his back and made him pull more I thought anyway. I would love not to use a head collar if I can help it
I use Perfect Fit harnesses. They have both a front and back attachment, so ideal for using a double lead. With my strong girl, I would hold the lead in both hands, as it gave me more control if she lunged. Back-fastening harnesses don't make a dog pull more, but they make it less painful (and likely to cause throat damage) when they do. This is a good thing A walking harness, even when used on the back clip alone, will decrease the dog's traction when they pull as the attachment point is in front of the dog's centre of mass, meaning a forwards pulling motion will reduce pressure on the front feet. Compared to a sled dog or running harness, which are designed to help the dog pull; with the attachment point well behind the dog's centre of mass, these increase the dog's traction. Think of a toy train going along a track. If you attach a piece of string to the top at the front of the train, when it gets tight, the front of the train lifts before you feel much pressure. If you attach the string to the back, the train will slow but not lift. With a front fastening harness, you get a turning effect - think about that piece of string attached to the very front of the train, with you standing to the side. As the train moves to the extent of the string, it is turned towards you and comes off the track. I think the two-handed hold on the lead with two attachment points is key as it allows you to anchor yourself much more effectively in the case of a lunge. But training is still absolutely necessary to get your dog to want to walk by your side. Techniques like the magic hand game can help with this, and lot of practice throughout walks, too. Even when he doesn't need to be on lead, work on a few paces of heel walking every few minutes of your walk. Make it fun, vary your pace, change direction suddenly and just be a goof. Try to catch him out once he has the idea - laugh when you "get" him, throw him a party when he stays with you. The more you can practice this in a fun way, the more he'll stay with you on lead.
This double end halti lead is brilliant (Nothing to do with the halti nose collar) And I've never seen it cheaper than this. They are lovely and soft and very useful https://www.amazon.co.uk/Company-of...F8&qid=1522401830&sr=1-1&keywords=halti+leads
Yes, these are the ones I use, too. Very comfortable. I also have Hunter ones, but they are round and nowhere near as comfortable to use.
@Vicci, have you looked at the sticky "walking on a loose lead" in the Training Forum? There is a video posted by @Joy which is really useful and might help you while you are training him not to pull. I'm using it with Cassie at the moment, as my lead walking training has been sloppy, with really good effect.
Penny is a strong puller and although its not a miracle answer the front clip harness helps a lot. I also have the double ended lead. The trouble i have is finding the right harness to fit. I have just paid £50 for one and gave the measurements and all and it doesnt fit properly at the chest as its too loose . I like the look of the julias k9 one but they dont have front clips
If you get the Perfect Fit, it comes in three sections. If any of these sections is the wrong size when you get it, they will replace it free of charge.
