Hi, I have a two year old lab, almost three and still acts crazy! When he meets people he still likes to jump up and sometimes nip which can make people wary of him. He’s about 85 lbs so when he jumps it can definitely hurt! For the most part, he doesn’t jump up so much on his owners, except for when he gets excited and thinks our want to play, but he does try to with strangers. His jumping makes people afraid of him to come over to my house, I know that he doesn’t mean any harm and is just eager to meet people but it can be frustrating. Any thoughts on how I can stop this behavior? I’ve tried turning away when he jumps which has helped some but he still jumps when he meets new people. Also, would it still be worth it to take him to get trained? Hope someone can help
Hi @Mary Katherine Cuff, teach him an incompatiable behaviour with jumping. For example, before he can interact with the visitors he must adopt a down position and stay there for say a minute. Put him on a lead before you answer the front door so that he cannot self reward by jumping up on your visitors. Tell your visitors to completely ignore him until he has finished his down stay. Let us know whether that helps to achieve some steadiness around visitors.
Hey, thanks for replying. I usually put him on the leash before he meets anyone, and I tell him to sit, but as soon as they come through the door he gets up. Even if I tell him to stay and sit, he usually doesn’t seem to listen without a treat. Without a treat, he doesn’t seem to care what I say. I will keep in mind to tell guests to try to and ignore him, thank you for your advice though!
Hi @Mary Katherine Cuff, okay. You might have to increase the value of the treats. Say roast chicken. He gets a piece if he stays for 2 seconds. Count in your head then yes and treat. Another two seconds, then yes and treat with the roast chicken. As soon as he gets up the treats stop. Next time a visitors comes he gets a treat every 4 seconds if he stays. So work him up to longer durations by small increments. Once you get the behaviour you want, move to intermittent reinforcement with treats.
Great advice from @Michael A Brooks. Worth noting that lots of struggle with exuberant labradors! It is difficult because when we make a mistake, and a visitor engages with our bouncy dog, (hard not too! ) then jumping up is reinforced, probably why this undesirable behaviour is taking a while to sort out . When greeting a visitor, you can stand on part of the lead, allow some give in the lead, (so not tight!) and reward the lead remaining loose. I have trained boundary games with our three, so knock on the door means all run to their beds for a treat. This is useful if it's a delivery and I need all my hands to carry parcels back into the house
Hi @Beanwood that's a very clever cue for go on your mat/bed. Did you use mimicry as part of your training method? regards Michael
What I've found useful is to put my lab on a house-line, as taught by Pippa on this website. When you get home, walk up to the dog, who will be bouncing around, trying to get to you, but stand just out of reach. When your dog has 4-on-the-floor, pet him. The second he starts bouncing, take a step back again. They learn very quickly that they need all 4 paws on the floor to get attention. If you want, you can wait till the dog sits down, and only pet when sitting, but you need to be consistent. If the dog isn't already tethered when you get home, then perhaps you can come up with a plan for tethering him before he can jump on you (for instance, having a baby gate around the front door, tether him, then exit the baby gate such that he can't reach you).
I have been working (as a trainee trainer) with someone on the issue of her dog jumping up at people (in excitement, not aggression) and you might find my training plan useful. You do need a helper (what I've called a 'stooge'). Training calm greeting Steps 1. Lie down instantly on cue. - In quiet area with no one near - In quiet area with one person walking past - In quiet area with one person running past, at distance and then close, no noise - In quiet area with one person running past shouting hello, at distance and then close - Repeat all above steps but in area where there are other people, vehicles at distance, in addition to ‘stooge’ - Repeat all above steps in busier area, but not allowing anyone to come within dog’s reach. 2. Lie down while one person quietly approaches and stands next to owner. 3. As 2. but while person speaks quietly to owner. 4. As 2. But while person talks more loudly, waves arms. 5. As 2 while person touches dog briefly on chest. 6. As 2 while person holds hand on chest for a few seconds 7. As 2 while person briefly strokes chest 8. As 2 while person strokes chest and speaks quietly 9. As 2 while person strokes dog’s chest and back and talks animatedly to dog 10. Repeat 2-9 in a sit 11. Repeat 2-10 with other people, one at a time, who have been briefed as to what to do and will comply. 12. Repeat all off lead Actions of handler and stooge during the above Handler Cue the dog to down/ sit just once in quiet voice. While dog remains lying down give food rewards at frequent intervals If dog jumps up remain silent and do not pull lead but quietly give down cue again When exercise is complete remember to give release cue and do a few seconds activity with dog (move or play) Stooge If dog jumps up remain or become silent and move out of dog’s reach, turning away from him. During approaches to dog, do not look directly at his face. Both If dog jumps up go back to previous step. It has worked really well for the dog I'm working with. This week, for the first time, as soon as I walked up and said hello, the dog lay down. He has learnt to associate a person approaching means lie down and get a treat. It does take time and patience. And I would stress saying nothing if the dog jumps up as many dogs find even someone saying 'Get down' as a reward. Dogs who crave attention sometimes don't mind what form the attention takes.
