Where to Start with Puppy Training? How to Keep From Being Overwhelmed?

First, let me say that this isn't a critique of this forum.
I love this forum and I've already learned some great stuff from it.
In fact, my problem is that the forum is so good - there is so much good stuff here - that I'm feeling a little overwhelmed and I don't know where to start or how to proceed.

I have a new, wonderful puppy. He's a 14 week lab-mix named Romeo.
He's a rescue and no one is sure of the mix, but we are fairly sure there is some Blue-Heeler and Pointer inside him.

He's obviously very trainable. The stuff I've learned from this forum about crate training and using treats, and knowing what to expect about his teething has been invaluable.

I'm planning on setting up a training log so I can keep things organized.

I've been to the section on "puppy training" articles and it is all great stuff, but the problem is that the articles link to other articles, and those articles, in turn, link to other articles, and before you know it, you have a ton of reading to do before you feel you can get started.

Any advice on how a newbie like me can get started without getting overwhelmed?
What should I be doing first?

Many thanks for any advice

 

Very good question @Adamf

I would initially teach in roughly the order set out below.

1. a conditioned reinforcer (yes or clicker)
2. name recognition
3. crate training
4. Toilet training
5. Loose lead walking
6 Leave it
7 sit
8 recall
9 Sit Stay and Down Stay
10 Go to Mat/Place

When writing your training log it is crucial to set out your goals. Do you want your dog to come on a recall past hamburgers set out on the ground? Knowing what you want will help you to work out your training plans.

PS Have fun. Break all the tasks down into small steps in order that both you and your dog get success.

 

Dynamite Stuff! Michael, thanks so much!

If I may, I'd like to ask three other related questions.

1. I think I understand why a "conditioned reinforcer" is number one.
Apparently, this is how you show approval for everything else. Is this true?

2. Ideally, I'd like to jog with the dog, perhaps in a few weeks or months when he is older.
I've tried this and nearly killed myself. The pup kept crossing back in forth in front of me and I almost tripped over him.
Is loose lead walking the same as training your dog to run with you, or do you train them to run with you some other way?

3. How far can you safely walk and run a puppy without injuring them? Is there a chart, something like this:

3 Months - 5 Months: Walk: 15 Min Run: 5 Min
6 Months - 9 Months: Walk: 25 Min Run: 10 Min
Etc.

Many Thanks!

 

Yes. It's the bridge between you and your dog

I would not run for any distance until your dog is at least one year old. The way to do this is to teach heel. The dog will always be on say your left. But initially teach your dog to heel by using normal pace. Jogging and slow pace come later.

No. no jumping or strenuous exercise until joints are fully developed. Since you now have 11 things to concentrate you are going to be busy for quite some time. Heeling, I find, is the most difficult exercise to do properly. From memory you don't have a pure bred Lab. They are not really designed for lengthy running. Use judgment when your dog is older.

 

Michael, I can't thank you enough for these great answers.
I intent to dive right in to a "conditioned reinforcer" immediately and proceed from there.
Got it! No jumping or strenuous exercise until joints are full developed.
I'm still a little concerned because I don't know how to judge what is strenuous for a puppy. My wife takes him for 20 to 25 min walks. Is that too far?
How many minutes should you walk a puppy or dog? Does this change with age?

Thanks again!

 

Hi @Adamf strenuous exercise is hard to define. The rough rule is 5 minutes for each month of life while the dog is growing. You can do more when your dog is an adult. But it will depend on your dog's weight and breed. Cattle dogs can do far more running than say a British bulldog.

 

Hi @Adamf a really good book to help with training is Jean Donaldson's "Train your dog like a Pro". A real step by step guide which covers all basic training.

 

This book is great. I'm following it right now to train Lincoln. I highly recommend it.

 

@Adamf - Yes, it can all be very overwhelming. Which is why it's best to start all the reading before getting the pup

To streamline things and not get overwhelmed, it is really good to have certain 'core' books or resources which you are working through and progressing with. If they don't provide enough information or you have problems implementing them, that's when you go off and look for other resources on that subject.

With a new puppy, I tend to prioritise the skills I need for the pup to fit into the household and lifestyle and also socialisation. Prioritising those skills takes up A LOT of training time.

If you go to my website: http://dogworks.org.uk/downloads/ You can download the free booklet 'New PUppy? No Problem' - which has info on crate training, alone training, play-biting, socialisation - all the 'puppy' related training stuff.

For things like Sit, Down, Recall etc etc, 'Train your dog Like a Pro' is a good one, as Jade recommends. For recalls specifically @pippa@labforumHQ has a great recall book - "Total Recall" - which you can purchase from Amazon.

But I'd also say that attending a good puppy training class is key, because there will also be a structure to that course, there should be handout sheets and a course progression which you can follow... all pups should be in a puppy class

 

Based on the recommendations in this thread, I ordered and received the book today. Thanks!

 

Based on the recommendations in this thread, I ordered and received it today. Thanks!

 

Great. You'll really like it. I suggest you watch the DVD once through first. It shows you you how to do the hand motions and cues. The book is very easy to follow just make to do the steps exactly.
Have fun !

 

I've already read through the first few chapters and learned about Push, Drop and Stick.
I can already tell that this is EXACTLY what I needed!
I'll follow your suggesting and watch the DVD as well.
I'm sure this will make a HUGE difference.

Thank you so much for your GREAT suggestion!

 

You're very welcome. Have fun!

 

I'm off and running with the book and I've already taught Romeo to sit.

I've watched the video and that's a big help. It fills in a lot of the gaps and let's you see it in action.

One thing that confuses me is training the dog for "Watch"

On page 20, the book says, "Watch is defined as the dog making and maintaining eye contact with the trainer. It has the great virtue of delivering high bang for the buck in terms of skill acquisition in the trainer along with practical benefits."


What is "high bang for the buck in terms of skill acquisition for the trainer?"
What are the practical benefits of "Watch?"
How do you use it? When do you use it?
Do you train the dog to watch so you can signal him or should a dog respond to auditory commands?

Thanks, Adam

 

I'm so glad you like the book. It's awesome isn't it?
Just a word of advice if you don't mind. Make sure you do every step, no skipping.
I love the push ,drop , stick. I refer to the DVD occasionally.
I could be wrong but I think teaching the "Watch" commands is just a means of getting the dog's attention. That's how I understood it.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm not skipping. Sticking to it 100%. It seems like a very simple, well-thought-out system. Absolutely awesome.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much the the good recommendation.
I think Romeo is particularly receptive to training. He grasped sit very quickly.
He seems to be grasping "watch" quickly, although I don't know quite what to do with "watch."
I keep the training short and mix in some play to keep it fun, and I'm very optimistic.
I'm starting a simple training log just to journal and keep track.
Thanks again!

 

Hi @Adamf

Excellent questions. I have taught my obedience cĺass watch aka focus. I don't follow Donaldson. She wants to teach watch as looking at the handler AND sit at the same time.

I believe it's better to teach watch without chaining it to another command.

When could a handler use watch. The handler is heeling and about to do a right turn or right about turn. If a handler does not say anything and has not taught the dog the version of competitive heeling in which the dog looks constantly at the handler, then most dogs will keep walking straight on. If the handler says focus, then the dog will look at the handler and a tight turn can be completed.

Some readers might offer the point that one can say the dog's name and achieve the same impact. Entirely true. In recall, one is allowed (at least in Australia) to call the dog's name to get her attention. Leave a slight gap, and then give your recall cue. We often have swallows darting around on our field. Saying the dog's name gets the dog's attention back on the handler.

So when else would a handler use watch/focus. Your dog is sitting on your left side. You could say focus, and then strart to heel. In doing so, the dog does not lag behind, which is possible if you start heeling without first getting the dog's attention.

Equally, you might use the cue leave it for stopping your dog from picking up something from the ground or the coffee table. To be sure some handlers broaden the meaning. Suppose your walking with your dog and she becomes too interested in say another dog. You want to break the stare, and so use watch/focus to reorient the dog's attention.

As you can see,,watch has a purpose, and I dont use it to mean sit and look at me.

Who is correct? You teach a dog cues to achieve what you regard as desirable behaviour. If you want your dog to sit AND look at you then follow Donaldson's steps. If you want to be able to use it, in other settings, then decouple the watch from the posture.

 

I see. So basically, "Watch" trains the dog to focus on you so he is aware you are either about to trigger some new behavior, or you are distracting him from something else.

Not being an expert, I would say your approach to train dogs to watch without chaining makes more sense. It certainly expands the application. Perhaps Donaldson is trying to keep it simple.

Thanks for the information. Very enlightening.

 

Hi @Adamf

I don't think she had simplicity in mind. Chaining is not simplicity. I believe Donaldson is trying to teach a calming behaviour. If the dog is siting and watching the handler's eyes, then there is less scope for anything else to distract the dog. I can see value in that.

But I would prefer that my sit or down cues achieve steadiness and proof against distractions, leaving the focus cue to be used for other ends.

As you have taught Donaldson's approach, you can use watch for what she had in mind, and use focus as the cue for just look at me, whether you are standing, sitting, down or walking. Look as in look at that training would be something else again, albeit it is somewhat related.

To teach focus, follow her steps but don't require the dog to sit. The dog might be standing, if that what she wants to do. In the second session, she might be sitting of her own accord. And third session she might be down. I don't tell her what posture I want. Just make sure you attach a different cue, so that watch and focus mean two different things to the dog.

Then again watch may be sufficient for your purposes. You can move onto the next chapter.

You certainly asked a very valid question. I urge you to that all of the time. Why? Why am I doing this step/exercise? Why is the dog behaving so? Why is she getting a payoff from such behaviour?

Why all the questioning? It makes it more interesting, and it will in time provide you with the ability to modify instructions for the dog in front of you, rather than the abstract and general dog the author had in mind.