Maintaining dog treat bags

Discussion in 'Labrador Health' started by Henry77, Nov 19, 2018.

  1. Henry77

    Henry77 Registered Users

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    I was wondering if anyone had a routine for what they put into and how they store treat bags.

    I've been using kibble mainly as treats, but I've been experimenting with chunks of cheese, chicken, hearts/gizzards, store-bought treats, and anchovies. Kibble is the norm, but I find by mixing in a few smellier treats here and there I see a lot more motivation in my pup.

    Typically I stick to one type of treat per session, or kibble mixed in with one kind of treat. I'm trying not to overdo it with any one product. For example I don't want to feed her with too much cheese, fish, or gizzards/hearts because I'm afraid too much in short stretches with no moderation isn't ideal.

    Mainly I'm wondering if anyone out there has any kind of "trail mix" routine or anything like that. I began thinking of this as I was cubing up some cheddar cheese and spraying it with a little bit of canola oil before putting it in a baggie. I use the oil so it doesn't clump together as much, and I'm also wondering if that is a good choice health-wise, or if there are other oils or better packing strategies that work well for others.

    I'm not so much concerned with what makes the best treats but with what a healthy routines and storing/prep strategies are most healthy.
     
  2. Michael A Brooks

    Michael A Brooks Registered Users

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    Hi @Henry77

    A good many treat pouches have two compartments. Use one for kibble. The other for some high-value treats. You don't want to go down the route of trail mix. The idea is to give higher-value treats for exemplary behaviour, and lesser-value treats for behaviour that is just okay. Discrimination is one of the four D's and you would not be able to implement that with a "trail mix".

    Mix it up so that you maintain her motivation. Try raw carrot one morning. Apple the next. Pear, sardines, chicken, watermelon, the mornings of the rest of the week. Don't always use the kibble she gets at home. It's no big deal at the margin if she gets a treat she normally gets at home in a bowl. If you see her drive fall, then experiment with something else as a treat.

    Just practice good hygiene. Limit the amount of time raw chicken is out of the fridge. Cooked meats such as beef spoil less quickly. Take the beef or cooked sausage out of your pouch and place it in the fridge until the next training session.

    If you are using wet-food, then place it in a sandwich bag and then place it in the treat pouch. Or don't use a liner at all. Just make sure you wash out your treat pouch at the end of training. And dry the pouch.

    If you have a treat pouch where it is difficult to get your hand in, then use a throw-away cup inside the treat pouch to hold it open. Place the rewards inside the cup.

    Each treats should be no bigger than the finger nail of your smallest finger. Remember to count the treats as part of her intake.
     
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  3. Henry77

    Henry77 Registered Users

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    Thanks, @Michael A Brooks

    I wouldn't say I don't discriminate between regular and high value rewards, but I can definitely be more concerted about it. I usually have something mixed in with kibble, and since it's only two things I can feel out the difference in my pocket or my pouch.

    The fruit is definitely something I need to try.

    I took my pup on two short walks today. First time we did kibble and store treats, and the second time was kibble and cheese. The cheese definitely had her heeling and looking up at me like crazy. She did pretty good without the cheese, but the cheese had her absolutely fixated on staying right up to me and looking up at me.

    Those are some great suggestions, thanks!
     
  4. Michael A Brooks

    Michael A Brooks Registered Users

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    When I'm teaching something new or raising a criterion I have less than half a second to give the treat after saying Yes. And if I was shaping something I wouldn't have the time to be sorting a trail mix with my fingers. My attention is on watching my dog. I don't leave my hand in the treat pouch. Once some behaviour is under way, I often place the treat behind my back so that she is focused on the cue rather than the food treats. You must make sure that the training finally becomes ABC not CBC (A = antecedent, B = behaviour, and C = consequence). You want your dog to follow your cues even when there is no food on hand or the consequence is only given with some probability.

    You probably possess more dexterity. And if it works for you, then that is perfectly acceptable.
     
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