So after going back and forth between a good recall and a poor one I decided to get a whistle and a 15ft longline that could be shortened. I spent half a day researching how to use these things before I started. Initially I just began with the whistle, tooting twice and treating for a look or a turn towards me. I had to whistle twice, say ‘come here’ and then a loud ‘yes, good girl.’ She was responding great, I started using it on a short 6ft leash on our walks and she looked every time so after a couple days I took her to a small field out of the way, let her off and used the whistle. She came running towards me every time I whistled without a issue. I got confident and took her to one of the local parks that’s always empty around lunchtime. We walked around and I blew the whistle a couple times and she was great until she found a pigs leg in the bushes . Since then the whistle seems to fall on deaf ears. Doesn’t matter if it’s in the house, garden or on the leash. I stopped using it and started with the longline, I didn’t think I’d need it up until that point. I’ve been walking her to the park on the 6ft leash and then putting the longline on. I keep hold of one end as we walk and every so often call her back to me. She’s responded to my voice a couple times but otherwise ignores me. She wasn’t this bad before I started using the whistle! I really am baffled. Have I confused her with the switch? She’s 16mo, not spayed.
I change it up cause she tends to get bored after a while. I’ve been using little cubes of cheddar, chicken or when I’ve ran out dog treats with a high meat percentage.
As Michael says, you need to use amazing treats for recalls. Personally, I use sardines, pate, black pudding, gourmet wet dog food - all administered with a plastic toddler spoon! I think you probably haven't done enough training at home and in low distraction locations. I usually suggest people practise the recall 20x a day at home, for a full week, before they use the phrase or whistle away from the house.
The key question is as follows: Does your dog regard your treats as simply amazing? Your dog's behaviour reveals she thinks what you are offering is less valuable than what she can find on the land. So she ignores you. Time to find what she really likes. I'm afraid your viewpoint doesn't count at all. In the case of food treats the dog is the sovereign. I can suggest to try sardines, pâtè, watermelon, or apples. But my preferences don't count either. Canine sovereignty when it comes to reinforcers.
I do agree with Jo too. You need to reduce the level of distractions so that your dog can be successful again. Success means you can positively reinforce the behaviour.
If it helps: my lab can learn a new cue (like a whistle) after about 5 recalls. When she looks at you (as though she wants to visit you), say 'come' and blow the whistle. Then give her a piece of hotdog. If she doesn't recall, reel her in the long line, and give her a piece of hot dog. A minute later repeat. By the 5th time, she'll likely recall. Of course, in my opinion, recalling with no distractions is worth little, its getting your dog to recall with high level distractions that's really challenging! I find that recalling too often makes my dog bored. I try to recall only a few times per walk, when its needed. He would never recall 20 times in a row, I think that's just setting up a situation where your dog will learn to ignore you. Also, my dog really isn't into recalling if he's already close, and he sees no need to recall on a short line. In his mind, he's already 'there', so he can't recall. Anyways, try to only recall on the long line, when she's far away from you, and already looking at you. As soon as you feel any confidence in her, drop the long line (let it trail behind her), and when she's looking at you and bored, THEN recall her. I never recall my dog if he's in the middle of something unless its an emergency. Lastly, don't blow your whistle over and over. Blow it once. If no recall then walk up to the end of the dogs trailing long line, and reel her in (no need to treat).
Hi, The whistle is a really useful thing to have, so don't give up! How old is your dog? I would go right back to basics and as already said increase value of treats and work in low distraction places. Most importantly for me I would only be asking for a recall when your dog is doing the behaviour you want. When she looks at you call her, blow your recall whistle and make yourself super exciting and reward if she comes to you! If you call/whistle when she's busy, not looking at you, she will learn to ignore you. Meal times call her, whistle. Associate the recall with good things. Practice when she is likely to succeed.
We had to go back to basics for a bit after my dog started ignoring the whistle (some idiot had discarded the remains of a hog roast in the woods above our house which was far more attractive). Whistling him for dinner a few times was easy enough to do. Sometimes I make a big display of preparing his dinner then get my partner to call him outside so he has to move away from the food before he can eat it. I used to take his whole dinner on walks with me sometimes in the early days and feed as a big surprise jackpot reward. Hes raw fed I should add so his normal food is very motivating. If he was on kibble I'd be inclined to use something very tasty like a pouch of wet cat food for the occasional jackpot reward.
Thanks everyone. She doesn’t get the treats I’m using for anything else but I’ll try some other things and go back to basics.
I would not use cat food with a dog. Cats can tolerate a higher fat content than dogs. Buy the premium wet food designed for dogs.
Just double checked- the cat food I buy (Lills kitchen) has a lower fat content (5.5%)than their dog food (6%) and slightly higher protein as no veg. Cat food comes in convenient small pouches and dogs love it. Id only use it as a treat but I do know one dog that lived to the age of 18 on a cat food only diet. Given that you recommend cheese as a treat which is at least 50% fat I'm surprised at your concern here.
Hi @Ruth Buckley Point taken. But in my defence, before I posted I looked up the fat content of a number of cat foods and compared it to dog food sold in Australia. The fat content of cat food was twice that of the dog food. You've clearly done the research on what you are using. In my first class last Sunday I recommend low-fat cheese to be used by the owners who wanted to train with cheese. And I looked up the fat content of soft cheese if one used extra light. It was certainly a lot less than 50 per cent. I think we agree that a high fat content is to be avoided for dogs. I am surprised that a dog would live solely on cat food. Dogs are omnivores.
Dogs are omnivores but in the raw feeding groups im in there are lots of people who feed their dogs nothing but meat and their dogs do very well on this diet and raw fed cats and dogs eat identical diets. The high end, high meat content tinned dog food I used to buy before switching to raw was suitable for dogs and cats according to the label. Dog food seems to have more cheap filler in it because you can get away with it not because dogs need it. As for the fat content of cheese I must admit I used Wikipedia figures but now I look in my fridge the cheddar I have is only 34%fat.
Been reading up a little more on how other people have trained recall with long lines. Some say to never take it off them even when playing with other dogs, others disagree with this. Wondering what you guys think as I do let her play with her friends when we bump into them but I usually take it off. It’s a nylon line.
I left it on when playing with other dogs with no prblems. It's when I most needed it tbh. Playing near water was the only time I took it off.
