Clicker for training dog not to pull?

Discussion in 'Labrador Behavior' started by Deano82, Apr 6, 2015.

  1. Deano82

    Deano82 Registered Users

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    Nero is now 18 months old and still pulls like a train on his walks. I have tried many of the proven methods but still no difference. Sometimes he walks beside me fine (and when he does I always reward him) but as soon as he sees another dog/cat he gets all worked up and the remainder of the walk he pulls like hell sniffing the ground!
    My wife is unable to walk him anymore and sometimes he nearly pulls me over if I am not careful

    I am thinking about getting a clicker. Does anyone know of any guides on how to stop your dog pulling with a clicker?
     
  2. Kirriegirl

    Kirriegirl Registered Users

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    Re: Clicker for training dog not to pull?

    Hi! I think a lot of us have had, or still have, this problem. It can be one of the toughest habits to break. Here is one of Pippa's articles from the site to help you get started -

    http://www.thelabradorsite.com/clicker-training-heel/

    I find it helps to look at things positively, so rather than thinking you have to STOP him doing something you are teaching a new behaviour ie walking nicely on a loose lead.

    Let us know how you get on
     
  3. Oberon

    Oberon Supporting Member Forum Supporter

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    Re: Clicker for training dog not to pull?

    Pulling can be so frustrating, can't it. If is no good that you wife can't walk him anymore. I'm sure it is no fun at all.

    A clicker is a sound that 'marks' the moment that the dog performs some behaviour that you want. Basically, when the dog does the thing you want then you click, then immediately deliver a treat. The advantage of using a sound like a clicker is that you can precisely pinpoint the exact moment the dog did what you wanted. It's a communication tool.

    In order to have something worth clicking you need to get some version of the behaviour you want. In your case that'd be taking a single step forward without pulling on the lead. You mention that sometimes he walks fine without pulling :) So at those times you can be ready with your clicker - as soon as he takes a step without pulling, click and treat. Then wait for two steps without pulling - click and treat. Very gradually build up from there.

    It's also really important that you don't allow your dog to pull you a single step. As soon as he makes the lead go tight you need to stop dead and not move a millimetre. Only move on when he relaxes pressure on the lead (you can encourage him back to you to achieve this or you can just wait...). If you let him pull you along then the training with the clicker won't help. You need to turn into a 100 tonne block of concrete the instant he makes that lead tight.

    What kind of lead and collar/harness arrangement are you using? A really chunky lead (I use abseiling rope) can be kinder on your hand and some people find that a harness can help as if the dog pulls the front end comes off the ground a bit and they can't get as much traction (plus it removes the risk of any injury to the neck).
     
  4. Deano82

    Deano82 Registered Users

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    Re: Clicker for training dog not to pull?

    Thanks

    We have tried the k9 bridle but he wont let us put it on him! Took the two of us to hold him down to put it over his head but hes such a big dog we gave up with it

    We have ordered a clicker...hopefully we will get more luck with this
     
  5. Deano82

    Deano82 Registered Users

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    Re: Clicker for training dog not to pull?

    [quote author=Oberon link=topic=10478.msg154713#msg154713 date=1428309233]
    Pulling can be so frustrating, can't it. If is no good that you wife can't walk him anymore. I'm sure it is no fun at all.

    A clicker is a sound that 'marks' the moment that the dog performs some behaviour that you want. Basically, when the dog does the thing you want then you click, then immediately deliver a treat. The advantage of using a sound like a clicker is that you can precisely pinpoint the exact moment the dog did what you wanted. It's a communication tool.

    In order to have something worth clicking you need to get some version of the behaviour you want. In your case that'd be taking a single step forward without pulling on the lead. You mention that sometimes he walks fine without pulling :) So at those times you can be ready with your clicker - as soon as he takes a step without pulling, click and treat. Then wait for two steps without pulling - click and treat. Very gradually build up from there.

    It's also really important that you don't allow your dog to pull you a single step. As soon as he makes the lead go tight you need to stop dead and not move a millimetre. Only move on when he relaxes pressure on the lead (you can encourage him back to you to achieve this or you can just wait...). If you let him pull you along then the training with the clicker won't help. You need to turn into a 100 tonne block of concrete the instant he makes that lead tight.

    What kind of lead and collar/harness arrangement are you using? A really chunky lead (I use abseiling rope) can be kinder on your hand and some people find that a harness can help as if the dog pulls the front end comes off the ground a bit and they can't get as much traction (plus it removes the risk of any injury to the neck).
    [/quote]

    We use a chunky lead so its good on the hands and we use a standard collar around the neck. I dont like the idea of those choke collers that some use
     
  6. Oberon

    Oberon Supporting Member Forum Supporter

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    Re: Clicker for training dog not to pull?

    It's very good that you don't use anything that could cause choking.

    Re. the head collar: With any new bit of equipment it can be helpful to think about how you might be able to use treats to get the dog to accept the equipment happily :) So, with a head collar (of any design) first of all I'd just hold it up (just hanging loosely) with a treat on the other side. Let the dog eat the treat through the head collar. Do that a few times. Then put it away. Next day do this again but this time hold it as if you might be going to out it on and get him to reach into it for this treat. Repeat half a dozen times. Next day, do this again, but actually put this head collar on and adjust it so it fits. Use lots of treats. Then take it off. You get the idea - build if up gradually and make putting his head into it a very rewarding experience. Only when he's happy wearing it in the house for a short period would I try attaching a lead (again, using lots of very nice treats) :)
     
  7. Deano82

    Deano82 Registered Users

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    Just a little update....

    Overall Nero has got better on his walks although he has the odd day or two where he doesn't want to listen!
    He still has a long way to go but I am happy that he has improved. Saying that the training goes out of the window when he sees another dog! He still gets distracted easily. If we dont bump into any dogs then he is pretty good
    I am sticking to the method, if he pulls I stop, then click and reward for loose lead.
     
  8. MaccieD

    MaccieD Guest

    Good to hear that you're making progress. What can be useful sometimes with a dog that is distracted by other dogs, is to distract them before they see/meet the dog. I always do a bit of training when out walking so after spotting a dog, I will ask for a sit and look at me and then treat. I often find that a dog has passed and Juno hasn't even noticed because of the focus on sit and look at me. Worth a try
     
  9. Oberon

    Oberon Supporting Member Forum Supporter

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    Well done on making a difference with the training you've done :)
     
  10. Dexter

    Dexter Moderator Forum Supporter

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    Slow and steady wins the loose lead race on my experience with many a curve ball along the way!
    Keep at it,stay consistent and you will get there.Great you are seeing a difference ,keep up the great work x
     
  11. JulieT

    JulieT Registered Users

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    Charlie and other dogs - nightmare, in the end I found a trainer with a lot of dogs and I walked round and round and round those dogs.

    At first at the other end of the field, then a bit closer, then with the dog standing (instead of sitting), then moving, then walking towards us.....

    We started with very well trained dogs who would ignore Charlie no matter what, and worked up to younger dogs, then puppies, then a rescue dog who was a bit reactive.

    Took most of last summer to do, but it really worked. It's gone out of the window a bit now (as Charlie is on rest and isolated from other dogs) so I'll probably have to do it again!
     

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