Frustrated reaction - going crazy

Discussion in 'Behavioural science and dog training philosophy' started by Porter, Jan 2, 2018.

  1. selina27

    selina27 Registered Users

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    I really feel for you.
    Have you tried the standing on his lead so he simply can't jump on you? Whilst he may continue to nip your feet and legs from this position if you simply don't react at all he will stop eventually because it will be boring for him. Yes it will hurt you, but if he is restricted like this consistently he will eventually not bother. I can only say that this is how it worked with Cassie.
    You know there is a nice, friendly dog in there, as he matures and, with training the bond will deepen, you will see that more and more. As @UncleBob says time and patience is the key.
     
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  2. Jojo83

    Jojo83 Registered Users

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    As soon as he goes to jump, turnaround and walk back to the door and wait for him to calm then try again. How is he when you get ready for a walk. Does he sit calmly while you put on his lead or is he bouncing around? Does he charge out of the door in front of you or wait for you to say for him to go?
     
  3. Porter

    Porter Registered Users

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    Yes, but it is not always easy when he gets so agitated. When I can't, I just hold my arm stiff to keep him on stable at a distance. Or I try to keep walking to when moving, it forces him to keep walking as well. But sometimes, it is so intense that it completely destabilizes me. How long did it take before Cassie stopped doing it?
     
  4. Porter

    Porter Registered Users

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    I always ask him to sit before I open the door. If he gets up before I told him to, I close the door and do it as many times as it takes for him to be in control. I also ask him to sit on the other side when I close de door. If I am in the driveway when he starts his crisis, I come back Inside but as soon as I turn towards the steps, he runs towards the door almost like if this is what he wanted. This is kind of odd...
     
  5. snowbunny

    snowbunny Registered Users

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    Have you tried figure-8 walking? It's quite soothing for most dogs, keeps them moving and calms them down. You want to go really slowly. It's a good tactic to do before the ridiculousness starts, so as soon as you're out the door, or even in the house. Do it until he visibly relaxes and focuses nicely on you.
     
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  6. Jojo83

    Jojo83 Registered Users

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    Beat me to it @snowbunny :). You can also walk to spell out names rather than figure 8s as it creates more focus on you, is more fun and is really good for loose lead work. Do you have a hand touch cue? If so, you could try using it as an alternative behaviour when frustration starts showing before it develops. If you haven't trained a 'touch', here's my favourite

     
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  7. Atemas

    Atemas Registered Users

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    Sorry if this has already been mentioned but does he wear a harness with a D ring front and back? Do you use a double ended lead like a Halti so you can step on the lead to anchor him so he can’t jump up you. Although I haven’t tried the figure of 8 walking, you need a harness and Halti type lead - I think this would be a very calming activity to do.
     
  8. selina27

    selina27 Registered Users

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    Best part of a week, if my memory serves me right :) And no it's not easy.
    That looks like good advice from snowbunny and jojo, the figure of 8 walk, it's new to me, but I think it would helpful before he gets going with the mugging. And the hand touch is definitely good to do.
     
  9. Porter

    Porter Registered Users

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    I haven't done the 8 figure per say but I always start my walk turning in a circle counter clock since he tends to pull. He walks on my left. So as soon as he pulls, I am cutting him off or I keep changing direction. My goal was to let him know that by pulling, he is not more advance. The best way for him to expend his territory is to walk by my side. As soon as he walks while paying more attention to me, I expand and then start walking further.
     
  10. Porter

    Porter Registered Users

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    Thank you Jojo@83 for your video. It is quite interesting. He learned the touch however, except for as a cute little game, I had no clue how it could be useful. Now I know and I will keep working on it. I had a harness that I used the first couple of week however, he was so tensed that I stopped using it. I had instead a Martingale collar. I will tried it again but will first try to get him used to it by letting him wear if for 5 minutes at the time, inside only. Thanks all again for your encouragement, it keeps me going. Now I'll pull my courage together and try again.
     
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  11. Xena Dog Princess

    Xena Dog Princess Registered Users

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    I wonder if @SwampDonkey might be able to share some advice/encouragement? She had/has a young, excitable male dog who often got a case of the sillies when he was out on his walks.

    I do remember one member on here who had a young dog who'd go mad on walks, snapping and biting and jumping etc (was the dog called Maisy? I'm sure it was a bitch). I remember her saying that she'd have to tie the lead onto a fence etc and just let the dog tire herself out. Eventually she grew out of it.
     
  12. Jojo83

    Jojo83 Registered Users

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    Your boy certainly likes making life difficult but please don't use a martingale collar which is a version of a choke chain, just not quite as punishing :( and he doesn't like a harness but at least we can try to change his feelings about the harness. Pop his harness on and feed him all his meals in it and then remove it. Lots of treats at each step of putting the harness on. If he really doesn't like the harness try putting it on the floor and reward for him approaching it, then getting closer, then for touching it and slowly introduce putting it on.
    Glad you like the video - a hand touch is so useful to have :)
     
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  13. Sarge Brown

    Sarge Brown Registered Users

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    Hi Porter,
    How old was your puppy when you got him? Do you know if he was given any training, and if so what kind? Could some of that conditioning need work to reverse?

    Also, I noted he nips and bites at you. I know a lot of people are opposed to muzzles, but if used correctly and trained with positive methods, it can be a great tool while he gets through his nipping period. Many vets use muzzles on dogs in treatment centers. And some ask that any new dog to the practice be muzzled until they demonstrate no bite behaviors. And lots of groomers staswell. That doesn’t make them ideal for all circumstances, but gives you an ideaof how many times a dog may use the muzzle in a positive way. I had to train two of my guys to muzzle because they were eating everything they came across. After a very scary and dangerous operation on the one to remove a large metal hook like thing, I decided a muzzle was better than death. Anyway I used the large basket kind so that my dogs could breath, pant drink and accept my treats, but could not get to bad things on the ground. I used peanut butter to make the muzzle a lovely treat for the boys. They never loved them but they accepted them, just like their halters and collars. They would rather be naked and free, but that doesn’t serve their best interst. I am betting if you could get your guy out of the habit of nipping, it might be worth your while to explore one and see.

    I also advocate for non-rub halters with O rings both front and back. And while it takes a little skill to use both at the same time, it may help your pup with the lunging and jumping and allow you more training time rather than reaction time.

    Best of luck with your boy. Labs are super awesome dogs.
     

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