Hi, Mabel is a chocolate lab who will be 2 in december. She has been well socialised but at the start of the summer she started to bark aggressively at some dogs. This is getting worse and today when we were walking she terrified a dog owner by barking and circling her dogs. There doesn't appear to be a pattern (except for 2 dogs that she always barks at - they started barking at her first). It's not just when she's on her lead - today she was off her lead when it happened (the other 2 dogs were on lead but weren't aggressive at all). It's upsetting me and making me feel anxious about asking her out. I just don't know what to do to try & prevent it, or, if it happens is there any way I can stop her barking? I'd really like to see a dog behaviourist but can't afford it at the moment. Any help greatly appreciated. Lesley
There are various techniques which can be used to help in this situation unfortunately without having a full history and being able to observe Mabel it is hard to know what would be best. It would be helpful to know when it started and in what situation but it really is better to consult a behaviourist - we're not all outrageously expensive. One thing that is certain is that unless appropriate teaining techniques are put in place the behaviour will only get worse
Hi there and welcome! Mabel is the same age as Bramble then... Firstly, if you can't afford a behaviourist, you could consider a well structured group class where the trainer uses positive reinforcement methods, and the dogs are kept at a good distance from each other. Have a look for adolescent classes locally for example. What you can do in the meantime is make life easier, find quiet areas to walk, investigate local dog walking areas, secure dog walking fields. This will help reduce stress levels while you look at ways to help Mabel cope with the triggers she is finding stressful, in this case it looks like other dogs. You can even look to short training games in your garden/home to build her confidence and help work on your relationship. Perfecting short/fun games inside that you can transfer outside are really useful. Examples are hand touch, middle, teaching your dog to turnabout are just a few. Also have a search on the forum for "LAT" training technique. Keeping stress levels low is really important, as when a dog has experienced a difficult situation, these can build up. This is called "trigger stacking". The outcome of this is a very frantic dog due to stress hormones building up the system. I have a reactive dog, and when unfortunately he has had a bad experience or just seems a bit out of sorts we just drop walks for a day, play short fun games at home/garden combined with a stroll in a private field.
Thanks - she is definitely worse if she has got overexcited. Some days she is perfect - walks past any dog without a problem, other days she can't control herself. Will try the techniques suggested
Thanks for your reply. This started about a month ago, and there really is no pattern to the barking. She is normally such a friendly dog, too friendly sometimes. She hadn't had any incidents which may have led to this. I think you are right about the behaviourist as I definitely don't want this to get worse. Thanks for the advice, Lesley
A responsible trainer would want to know the reasons/ history for the barking before allowing the OP to join a class as the behaviour needs to be managed within the class environment and other clients considered. Classes are a structured learning environment and it is inappropriate to use other clients dogs as "stooge" dogs.
I rather think the term "stooge" dog may be rather unfortunate. In essence, group classes are full of stooge dogs. It is the best form of learning how to deal with distractions in a safe and controlled environment. Pretty essential in our busy society these days! I may be wrong, and (please feel free to comment) but I think being calm under distraction it's a fundamental behaviour our dogs, particularly young excited dogs need to develop. I also feel it is important to have a dialogue initially with a trainer before joining a group, this would naturally involve looking at realistic outcomes and expectations. I know of new dogs attending classes who simply do their own thing at a distance which is comfortable form them. Sorry, but I never considered them inappropriate but responsible dog owners doing the best they possibly can for their dogs. I think my recommendation was for "well structured classes with a positive reinforcement trainer". In my experience they tend to embrace all the above.
