Hi all, We are not at our wits end yet (thanks to baby gates!), but I am embarking on a puppy training approach that initially focuses on five key areas: socialization, bite inhibition, preventing aggression, getting used to spending time alone, and getting used to handling. It's pretty much in line with Pippa's book (our primary learning tool about training and puppies until now). This trainer emphasizes that bite inhibition should be learned in part through socialization with other young puppies (as well as with people, older dogs, and with chew toys) in order to learn about controlling their bite. It seems sensical, and is pretty easy to align with the Happy Puppy as none of it contradicts. My question relates to the first couple of weeks. She suggests letting them nip and lick for the first two weeks because all puppies bite, as long as it doesn't hurt. When it does, say 'ouch', and get up and leave the puppy-proofed room. Then in week three (or so) we are to take a zero tolerance approach to nipping, only allowing licking and no clothes nipping. Obviously this involves using a puppy-proof room, toys for diversion, having meet-ups with other puppies, not hyper-arousing the puppy in key ways, and taking the puppy outside when he has the zoomies. So here's my question: Is it realistic to imagine that an 'average' Labrador retriever can stop nipping at 12 weeks age with consistent training? I believe our puppy is a moderate/middle-of-the-road nipper for his age (who becomes severe when he is in a zoomie state of mind). I ask because this trainer works with all breeds, and I am curious if her approach sets a realistic expectation for well-known biters like labs. A second related question: Is socialization with puppies well-established as helping with bite inhibition? She was the first we ever heard to bring it up, although our vet and many others highly recommend it for emotional regulation and well-being. Thanks!
Hi Megs Labs and Golden Retrievers are notorious for being mouthy breeds. It is part of their genetic make up. What I don't understand from your description is why you are not being encouraged to redirect your dog's mouthiness onto an object like a toy you hold on your person for such occasions. Forget about FRAP aka zoomies situations because your dog is not listening to you on such occasions. Socialisation can extend to teaching the puppy that it's fine to put you fingers in his mouth. It's a precursor to you being able to inspect and clean his teeth. Similarly the vet. But you may have to read about Start Button behaviours to do it properly. Giving the dog the power to stop you hand enables them to manage the potentially aversive situation much better. Ask your instructor on how to do a start button behaviour.
Oh there is definitely redirect yo toys. I left out some details to keep the post a bit shorter. Thanks for sharing the idea of Start Button behaviour. I believe the teacher touches on this but I’ll def look into it.
Hi there, re your second question some puppies bite much harder when they are over-aroused, or a little overwhelmed by their surroundings. So in that sense, socialisation is going to help. However biting generally does persist beyond 12 weeks in many puppies so it's important not to see this as a 'cut off' point. Good luck with your training!
Thank you for commenting! Since posting our approach seems to be helping a little. He definitely has more control! But O doubt his first play date helped - the smaller slightly older pup was pretty put off by Chewie and they didn’t play but rather he put Chewie in his place!
