I think you've already asked about this. A martingale collar is designed to tighten as the dog pulls (although it is more limited than a choke collar). It's not a good idea for a dog and certainly not for a puppy - at worst could damage neck, least worse, it is an aversive and can damage your relationship. If you let us know why you are considering using one, I'm sure you will get help in training your puppy without using a martingale.
Hi, my understanding is that a Martingale is a half choke collar. In narrow-headed dogs (lurchers, greyhounds) there may be a use for them, however, I certainly cannot see any reason to use them in a puppy. There is a risk that the two connecting D rings are too tight and can cause damage to the delicate soft tissue around the throat, especially in a young pup. I used soft Puppia harnesses for my youngsters, and moved to a flat collar and lead when I had loose lead walking nailed. Although, in some situations, I have had to revert back to a front and back attaching harness. So I have a variety of harnesses and leads in my walking the dog toolbox! I think it goes back to thinking about the purpose of a collar, it is simply to attach you to the dog, via a leash. So my advice would be to offer your dog the most comfortable and safe option, being mindful of the environment where you are walking your dog, and you and your dog's ability to cope with that environment.
I did ask this before but could not find any replays,New to site. When walking my sweet boy he lunges at people birds, what ever he sees someone suggested that collar to me.I have tried many different things and not sure what to try next.problem is he is very strong and takes m e flying with the harness
I would stick with a harness but perhaps use one with both back and rear rings. You could then attach a double-ended lead - one end on the back ring and one on the front. You would mostly hold the lead so you were using the back ring but in a lunging situation the front ring will give more control. This is an interim measure while you train. The way to train is to stock up with high value food and go somewhere where you can see whatever your dog reacts to at a distance. As soon as he looks at it, feed him. You're not so much rewarding good behaviour as making a link in his mind between the thing he sees and a pleasant outcome (classical conditioning). If he is lunging through fear it is more important to keep your distance initially. If it is excitement you can get nearer. My current dog went through a stage of being reactive in traffic (lunging at cars etc) when she was around a year old I think. I used this method and it worked (we can walk around busy town centres now with no problems). Because you're not rewarding a particular behaviour, you can feed even if your dog does lunge - you are building an association in your dog's mind 'this thing means food.' I hope this helps.
