Absolutely, that is the thing that stuck out to me, too. I've never seen anything like that, and I've done classes with at least 10 different trainers. If your pup gets crazy (we've all been there, you get used to the embarrassment) then definitely remove him from the training space or move away and work on him calming down. Classes didn't start getting easier for me until Xena was about 12 months, so hang in there.
2 weeks left for us as well and I have signed up for next course. Only the trainer knows! Unless they are reading this forum .......
Late to the party here, but just wanted to say that I've been in loads of puppy classes (I used to take friends' dogs in addition to taking my own) and without exception, the Labs are ALWAYS the problem children. There'd be the occasional wild pittie pup, but the rule was the Labs were going to be the ones nearly breaking their humans' hands coming in and out of class, tipping over chairs, trying to launch themselves at the other dogs, etc. If I only knew Labs through puppy class, I'd avoid them like the plague. But the thing is, like @Boogie says, there is a reason they choose Labs or Lab crosses as guide dogs. They DO turn out lovely, as so many people on the Forum will tell you. Even those same crazy Labs in puppy class, if they stuck around to advanced level classes, turned into amazing dogs. Maybe Lab puppy trials and tribulations are the universe's way of making you pay the karmic debt for the wonderful dog you're going to have once they settle down?
If it makes you feel better (and it should!) my dog is 2 and is on the younger side in our current class of about 8 dogs, and there are several dogs of various breeds (not labs!) that get over excited (barking, jumping etc) and need to be walked out and return when calm!
Those were my sentiments exactly. The price of an awesome adult lab is a crazy lab puppy. I wouldn't trade my labs for the world, even if they do drive me completely bonkers when they are young.
Not to mention answering everyone else's recall, a wee that you would expect a horse to do and the class having to stop while it was mopped up, enthusiastically greeting other puppies onlookers, a lump the size of an egg from headbutting me, quite how I don't recall ... oh the list goes on But @Caro A , like others I would question the action of holding her down.
Max's first few puppy classes he barked Non stop and had a hard time keeping focus but I constantly kept throwing treats on the ground from my treat pouch all the while asking him to perform various tricks in between what the obedience instructor asked. By the end of the sessions he was top of his class and the barking subsided. He would even find himself lying on the floor relaxing. It does eventually get better. Short breaks outside to help you pup calm down helps wonders too!
I'm so glad I found this forum! All the whirling tornado made me think of was the impossible Marley of "Marley and Me" fame. You all are gonna save my sanity
I did say "easier" and not "easy" I actually had to leave the rally course in tears last November (I quickly pulled myself together on the sidelines) because her nose would.not.leave.the.grass. I hadn't had a class with that little focus EVER, it was really disheartening.
Ella went to her 1st puppy class on the 22nd we all get there 15 min early to have a chat and let the puppies do there thing she had a very good time 1 other black lab there and 2 golden retrievers in our section (around 20 puppies split into 3-4 groups each with a trainer)lol the 2 golden ret where every where missed the class on the 1st as near on snowed in just not worth the risk
I've not been back to the class. Those telling me that the trainers methods of handling of an "overthreshold" dog has put me off. I'd not heard of it described like that before. The trainers were never unkind, just trying to stop my hands getting bitten, but if that method is not doing our situation any good then there's no point going, for an out of madness and getting bitten in front of everyone. Humiliation My girl is 6.5 months now, she's still getting really over excited, jumping, biting, it's a liability. I can't walk her along the high street cos she lurches at everyone full throttle, old ladies, children Generally when it's just me and her she's ok, very loving, im home all day. She gets 2 lovely forest walks, which generally go well, she mostly behaves, comes when called and stays close to me. But when the family get home she livens up into a frenzy. If we have a visitor she's a nightmare, so excited, "over threshold". Is this going to change ever? I know she'll always be an enthusiastic lab, that's why we chose her, but this big boisterous biting thing is SO tiring, it's like crisis management in my house all the time. Any ideas? Advice? I'm not giving up with her, I need to crack this!!!! Do you think I should get a one to one trainer that could help with those specific excitement issues, or is the excitement something that will subside as she gets older? Thanks for all advice
It absolutely will get better, and she will calm down, but it won't just happen - you've got to keep training. Does your family rark her up when they get home, or do they enter the house calmly and wait for pup to calm down before greeting her? The same goes for guests - tell them that when they come in they've got to keep their hands low and still, no eye contact, ignore pup totally, turn their back if she starts to jump etc - THEN they can greet her (if they want) once she's calmed down. She needs consistent behaviour from the humans, then she'll chill when people come home. There is absolutely no way no how that I could have *ever* dreamt of walking Xena down a high street at 6.5 months without it being a complete fiasco - I'm not sure many young Labradors could tbh. There are a few city slickers on the forum so hopefully they can chime in with their experiences.
Oh thank you so much. I used to take her up to the school to collect when she was little for socialisation, now everyone is asking where she's gone ha ha! There's no way I can take her there now.... at least I shouldn't worry about that then, fairlynormal, she's just too excitable around the children, I'll end up with complaints! I wasn't sure whether more exposure to exciting situations might actually help climatise/train her, but it's really just a no no. Some of the children have no fear! My youngest, 8 has always steered clear of her when he comes home cos he doesn't like the biting, she's actually pretty good around him (now there's a thing). My eldest 13 has always been an exciting element, but now she's so big, and still doing jumping and biting his patience has worn thin, he tries to ignore her now, but she sees him as huge fun and always wants to play. He's the first one home (while I'm out at little school), so he goes in, and now no matter how offish he tries to be with her, as soon as he lets her out of the crate she goes bonkers with him, I walk in 15 mins later to hell! Hubby comes home later and if she jumps and bits he is very firm with her, but sometimes even that backfires and I think she likes the attention of him telling her off. So, I'm going to brief them all, from tomorrow, just ignore her, turn your back and don't say a word, do you think that will help? Or should we at least say "no". Thanks again
I wonder if there are a few management things you could try while your pup matures and you gradually train. It’s great that your puppy has daily forest walks but could you fit in a ten minute play/ training session at home before you leave to pick up your youngest from school. I thought that maybe then the pup could stay in the crate until you get home, rather than your older son letting him out. Perhaps your older son could come in and go to a different room? Ignoring jumping up will work, but it won’t be instant - for a while your pup may try even harder to get a reaction, knowing it has worked in the past - so it will only work if you are all absolutely consistent. I think your pup is likely to see any noise (even ‘no’) as rewarding. Perhaps you could teach your pup some games like fetch or tug (with a release) and also show your older son how to play these with her. I am currently (as a trainee trainer) helping someone to train their dog to remain calm around people so I’ll post my training plan in case it helps. I know it looks long winded, but we have gone from stage 1 to 10, in three one hour sessions ( this is an older dog) and have just started stage 11. This dog adores attention and doesn’t vpcare whether it’s ‘good boy’ or a shouted ‘get down’ and has been jumping up for four years - but the plan is working, his owner says he has never been so calm, so it might for you. Training calm greeting Steps 1. Lie down instantly on cue. - In quiet area with no one near - In quiet area with one person walking past - In quiet area with one person running past, at distance and then close, no noise - In quiet area with one person running past shouting hello, at distance and then close - Repeat all above steps but in area where there are other people, vehicles at distance, in addition to ‘stooge’ - Repeat all above steps in busier area, but not allowing anyone to come within dog’s reach. 2. Lie down while one person quietly approaches and stands next to owner. 3. As 2. but while person speaks quietly to owner. 4. As 2. But while person talks more loudly, waves arms. 5. As 2 while person touches dog briefly on chest. 6. As 2 while person holds hand on chest for a few seconds 7. As 2 while person briefly strokes chest 8. As 2 while person strokes chest and speaks quietly 9. As 2 while person strokes dog’s chest and back and talks animatedly to dog 10. Repeat 2-9 in a sit 11. Repeat 2-10 with other people, one at a time, who have been briefed as to what to do and will comply. 12. Repeat all off lead Actions of handler and stooge during the above Handler Cue the dog to down/ sit just once in quiet voice. While dog remains lying down give food rewards at frequent intervals If dog jumps up remain silent and do not pull lead but quietly give down cue again When exercise is complete remember to give release cue and do a few seconds activity with dog (move or play) Stooge If dog jumps up remain or become silent and move out of dog’s reach, turning away from him. During approaches to dog, do not look directly at his face. Both If dog jumps up go back to previous step.
OMG thank you so much, I'm really grateful I'm going to follow your advice, we will be doing exactly this. It's becoming obvious that we have been too vocal with her, telling her off. We need to give much less attention and divert her. Thank you, very much
