Teaching a puppy to walk!

Discussion in 'Labrador Puppies' started by Atemas, Mar 18, 2017.

  1. Atemas

    Atemas Registered Users

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    Yet more questions from me! 14 week old Red has been out walking using a harness and lead now for about three weeks. Some walks have been ok or parts of them have. Yesterday was totally frustrating. She wanted to 'hoover' up every stone, leaf, stick, rubbish along the paths. I felt I was just pulling her off stuff. She also pulls really badly, rearing up like a horse, trying to run like a hare. I have been stopping and getting her to sit and 'look at that' - people, vehicles etc and by and large she is good at doing that. I am learning to use a clicker and rewarding the behaviours I want but to be honest I am struggling (as I seem to be with so much to do with her) and yesterday returned home in tears (yet again) and husband had to remove a large stone from her mouth (I couldn't and there was no way she was going to drop it). I am only doing a 15/20 minute walk and although we live in a village, this is just pavements and a small area of green space from our house. Would be grateful for any advice please.
     
  2. snowbunny

    snowbunny Registered Users

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    Firstly, I'd stop pulling her away from everything, Instead, get something she really likes - a stick of cheese, a piece of ham or something - and place it right up to her nose and lure her away. I'd do this with the rearing up, too. I found with my puppy, who is very keen to learn and a bright little button, that stopping and waiting, whilst it eventually made her turn round to look at me, wasn't really sinking in. So, when she would pull forward on her lead, I'd just stop, then lure her back. Over time, you can drop the lure, and just use the hand motion and reward her when she comes back to place. I've had a lot more success with this, and it's a lot less frustrating (punishing) for her.

    Again, with the stone, you want to find something that's really high value and wave it in front of her nose. In order to take the treat, she has to drop what's in her mouth. It's worth training this at home with a variety of objects so she gets used to it. Then, you can just pretend to have a treat in your hand, and reward her after, then put it on cue. With this, give the "prize" back to her after the treat more often than you take it away, so she gets the best of both worlds. Sometimes, you just have to pick your battles, too. The more you try to take something away from her, the more she'll defend it. So, as long as there's no immediate danger, sometimes ignoring it is fine. My Willow was a horror for picking up big stones when she was younger. I'd generally swap them for a pine cone, and she eventually grew out of it.
     
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  3. Atemas

    Atemas Registered Users

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    Thank you for this Fiona - yes it felt like I was punishing her. I will try what you say today. It's just so full on as it's happening that I find it overwhelming.

    On a different note but a success. The handclap I have been doing as the first step of recall in the garden, I have now applied to the kitchen when my DH is trying to get through the puppy gate with his walking boots etc and she is jumping up at him trying to grab things. She has been stopping and coming to me. :)
     
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  4. snowbunny

    snowbunny Registered Users

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    Remember, also, to give yourself a break. Puppies are overwhelming. If in doubt, I just stick something smelly on Luna's nose :D

    Great progress on the recall!
     
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  5. Boogie

    Boogie Supporting Member Forum Supporter

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    I find teaching a pup not to pull is the hardest, but most rewarding, of all training.

    This is how we do it -

    As soon as the pup pulls, every single time, stop and - depending on what the pup is doing - either wait until the lead goes slack, ask for a 'sit' or change direction. Only move when the lead is loose. If the pup is focussed on something I ask for a 'sit' then get their focus back on me. Don't move, ever, if the lead is not slack - and don't pull the lead yourself, ever.

    For the first week or two I have a treat visible to the pup and treat every ten or so paces. After that the treat is behind my back, in my right hand and I treat randomly. The whole time I am talking to her in silly voices to keep her attention (fun in busy shopping centres lol!). Now that she's nearly six months old I don't have to talk to her quite as much and I can hold the end of her lead without her pulling, I get a closer grip if we are approaching a distraction (young children with Mollie are the most attractive things).

    Our supervisor tells us to treat only when the dog is in the right position and to stop to treat to prevent choking - I found this really hard at first, but I've got used to it.

    Mollie walks on a totally slack lead now but if a big distraction comes along I put a smelly treat right on her nose and lure her past. We walk on lead every day to pratice - some walks short, some longer.

    I've asked for a Golden Retriever boy next and they are not generally food orientated at all - I can't imagine how training will go! I've had Bruce, but he came to me at 8 months so all the hard work had been done.


    :)
     
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  6. samandmole

    samandmole Registered Users

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    My Mole was a shocker for picking up everything on a walk (and athome in the garden). I used extra special treats - pieces of cooked chicken were and are his favourite! I developed a good give for the chicken (which I took on a walk too). For a while I think he picked up things even more so he could get the chicken lol but after a while he just stopped doing it so much. I think puppies like toexplore with their mouths and mine was much more mouthy than my last two.
    He still loves to bring me things - stuff from
    The compost heap, sticks, a shoe but now he drops at my feet immediately for a bum scratch!
    It's a phase. Try and get a good give or drop. You will get there in the end! All the good advice on this forum has helped me so much. People comment on how well behaved my 15 month old boy is but at your stage I despaired! Stay strong. It will end. Consistency is key. Oh and kongs - the answer to everything!!
    Sam and Mole
     
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  7. Atemas

    Atemas Registered Users

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    Well just tried a bit of everyone's advice. We didn't go far. I pretty much lured her the whole way with a piece of chicken over her nose - not easy when she is so small and I am stooping and walking at the same time LOL. We had to stop a few times when she started to pull but she sat nicely. I found it hard but at least she walked and next to me as opposed to lunging ahead and pulling. Reckon this is going to take a lot of work but it has to be! Oh and she dropped stones to get the rewards which was good.
     
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  8. edzbird

    edzbird Registered Users

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    Yes, it takes dedication. Don't be trying to get from A to B, just to walk. It will get better.
     
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  9. Boogie

    Boogie Supporting Member Forum Supporter

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    Don't forget to treat often at first, about every ten paces. This is very, very hard work for the dog and needs huge rewards to begin with.

    Very soon she'll get the idea and you'll be able to hold the treat where she can see and smell it but you are upright. After a week or three of that you'll be able to have the treat behind your back at the ready :)


    I can go a full road now with Mollie now before treating, she's been the hardest of the lot to train and the feeling of achievement is well worth all the effort :D

    ...
     
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  10. Atemas

    Atemas Registered Users

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    Thank you so much for the encouragement - I need to know it will get better and easier.
     
  11. Jojo83

    Jojo83 Registered Users

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    One method I was taught for teaching a loose lead/ heel walk is to have the lead loose and position your hand over your tummy here it will remain fixed :) . Starting with the left foot, if you have pup on the left take a step and encourage pup to stay with you by placing a treat beside your heel. Continue with another step and pace another treat by your heel. Pups soon learn that it is really good to stay close and by placing the treat by your heel your are encouraging the position you want as well. If the puppy starts moving in the wrong direction just stand still and then encourage them back to position. Aim only for a step or two to begin with and aim to increase slowly. Yes it is tiring to keep bending but in the grand scheme of training it is a very short period before you have a nice loose lead/heel walk.
     
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  12. Atemas

    Atemas Registered Users

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    Last walk of the day. Have just tried the lure on the nose again - fab. She was doing about 15-20 steps by my side before taking the treat. 10 year old grandson was with me. Only out 15 minutes but special shared time. Thank you all for your advice and support - means such a lot to me.
     
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  13. JulieT

    JulieT Registered Users

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    We expect so very much of these young puppies. Can your 14 week old puppy walk and keep her focus for 15 minutes round your garden without so much as putting her head down to investigate a stone, leaf, stick? Of course not. So why expect her to be able to do it on a street?

    You can either physically prevent her from doing it or you can live with it, relax (unless it's something that is really going to harm her) and gradually work on her being able to walk in distracting places.

    The one single thing I've learned training dogs is do not overestimate what they are able to do, and do not underestimate how tiny the steps have to be to get them to do what it is you want them to do.

    Sure, some passionless dogs that are not remotely interested in their environment are good on their leads from the get go, everyone else either a) breaks it down into tiny steps and slow and steady wins the race b) spends 3+ years getting their dog to walk on a lead c) physically prevents or punishes a dog to get them to comply d) gives up and gets some horrid head collar device.

    a) is by far the best way. :)
     
  14. Beanwood

    Beanwood Registered Users

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    Yup...go with a) Everytime..:)
     

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