Every now and again, OH comes with me when I'm training. It's a very rare occurrence, though, because he finds it pretty dull to just stand around while I get on with things. To be honest, his mind tends to wander and he doesn't pay any attention, so it's best for us both if I can do things without him. One of the things I really want to work on with Willow is putting out two dummies and for her to only pick up the first, return, and then be sent out again. I've not done this for a while, because when I was at my training session, the trainer was helping out; we put down two dummies, I sent Willow to one and, if she continued on to the second, it was picked up so she couldn't self reward. Of course, you can't use that method when you're alone, so I've not been able to do it. So I was wondering if there was any other approach that didn't need an assistant? The set-up we were using was two dummies in a line, straight in front of the dog. One very close and the other (a red dummy so harder to see) was a long way away. It doesn't seem to matter to Willow if she can see it or not, if she's seen me walk out and place it, or throw it, she knows it's there. One thought is I might just walk out to the second spot and mime putting down a dummy, but not actually do it. That way, if she ran to it, she'd find no reward. Thoughts? Or maybe use a harness and a long line - but I'm not keen on physically stopping her going after the second. It strikes me as being a bit aversive to use this method, but I'm no expert - again, thoughts would be appreciated.
Mmm, how is she with one out either side, and you between them? I think I started with that (first dummy throw, turn, second dummy throw, turn, first dummy collect, turn, second dummy collect) lining the dog up for each collection and then narrowed the angle. I tend to use my 'hunt' whistle as a prompt that 'this is the dummy I want'. Would that help? What you're trying to do is really hard for a young dog through, there might be other good exercises to try before coming back to it.
Ah, OK, maybe I should lower my expectations. It's all so new to me still! I'm not sure she'd be successful even with that scenario of one each side, without someone to remove the second dummy if she went shopping. We're still in early days of three-handed casting with her, using target sticks, so I'll just focus on getting that strong in the short term, and then maybe introducing the dummies with that at a later date.
I always free a terrible fraud replying to posts like this, as I've got a dog that is a dummy shopper that would put anyone prepared to sleep outside Harrods on a cold January night to shame...but in one way, it does mean I've had a LOT of experience on the no shopping thing.... Hiding the dummy in 1 of 3 baskets worked well for Charlie (you get the dummy fastest if you go to the basket I tell you), then fade the baskets (you unravel them from the top....). But the main breakthrough came from putting one dummy out and working on other cues. So working and working on ignoring the dummy and following other cues. Throw a dummy to the right, send to a placeboard on the left, then touch, then round a chair. Just getting cues solid. So once the dog can move away from one dummy in the opposite direction...then past a second dummy, give the fetch cue to the left or right. If all else fails, having the second dummy on the end of a whippet stick worked pretty well....
Haha, I did consider using a fishing rod!! I thought that might be rewarding even if they don't get it, though, because a dummy flying through the air would be arousing. I like the idea of working on other things when there's a dummy on the floor. I do a little of this - walking to heel off-lead towards the dummy, past the dummy, in the opposite direction to the dummy. Also sit while I throw the dummy and then go and collect it myself. However, throwing the dummy and then moving independently of me, without going to collect it would be a huge thing to Willow. I'll have to go find some baskets for trying out that technique - but I'll save it until after I've got the other thing sorted, which will take a while, I think. There's always so much to learn on here!
Yep, I think shelve that particular exercise for a while then. My order of difficulty for that sort of thing would be: A) 2 dummies, one either side of dog and handler, send to one then the other from centre B) clock face sending dog to different 'numbers' from the centre C) left and right casts with dog starting between placed dummies and the line between dummies perpendicular to line between dog and handler (if you see what I mean!), maybe 10 paces from handler to dog and from each dummy to dog D) In a straight line, drop a dummy and heel the dog forward. After 10 paces leave the dog on a sit and keep walking. After another 10 paces stop and turn and throw a dummy between you and the dog. Then either send the dog 'back' for the first dummy or call the dog in to collect the second dummy. I reckon all these above are easier that what you're trying to do with 2 dummies in a line in front of both you and the dog, and some are pretty tricky and have taken me a full 2 years-and-a-bit to manage!!! I think for stuff like this to work, the dog has to enjoy playing the 'which way now' game at least as much or more than simply getting hold of any old dummy, and you've got to be pretty confident you can stop the dog or get her back if it goes pear-shaped, so doing stuff like Julie's baskets is definitely a winner as it tells the dog 'work with me and we both get what we want'!
I agree. I think "no shopping" is sort of advanced steadiness - or it has felt that way with Charlie. The ability to learn, listen and work out what gets the reward when there are a few dummies around is the thing. The game changes. It's no longer get that dummy, it's work around dummies and get the right one.... Total control around one dummy is a good starting point.
I took a pretty traditional approach which is basically the list that Merla has suggested. Use angles, distance and yourself to ensure you get the dummy you want. Also to start with try to work with your dog so if they're fixated on the dummy on the left(often last dummy down) don't ask them to go to the right it will only end badly. Once they understand picking one at a time and they work well with memories you can start to pick and choose which one you ask for.
